Tuesday, August 1, 2017

Trying to replicate a memory

Growing up in Alaska, I took fresh delicious seafood for granted. I'll never forget the winter when I uttered the forbidden phrase "Crab, again?". We had been eating crab at every meal for a week. But in my house when the crab was in, crab was what you ate.
Clam bakes on the beach are some of my best food memories. Several families and mine would meet across Katchemak Bay in a little cove known for its steamers. Pacific steamers are different than Atlantic. The shells are harder and the meat more tender. They are prized booty in the last frontier, I don't know anyone who would turn down a pot of fresh steamers. Anyway, clam bakes.
We all would meet at the wee hours of the morning, 4 or 5 am. Why are the lowest tides always so early? After using hand rakes to gather at least a 5 gallon bucket-full, we would quickly grab another bucket and fill it with the cleanest seaweed we could find. As the tide turned and began to come in, all of us kids would be sent back to dry ground to look for smooth rocks for the oven, and far away from the danger of being overcome by the tide.

Once we had a large pile of rocks, we would start digging. We wanted the hole to be in a rocky sand. Not too rough to dig in with a small shovel, but mostly pea sized gravel. I was little, and it was a long time ago, but I remember the hole being an oval shape, around 2 feet at the widest point and maybe 6 feet long. I stood in the hole and it was knee deep, probably 18" deep. First, we lined the cavern with the smooth rocks. Next came the seaweed. On top of that we placed the clams, any mussels or oysters we had, corn in the husk, and red potatoes. Next came more seaweed. If there was a fresh salmon to add to the smorgasbourg, it would be wrapped in seaweed and laid on top. Finally, more of the smooth rocks closed the dutchoven we had created. Next came the bonfire. Driftwood was the main source of the flames which would sometimes go taller than my dad. I was very impressed. The fire burned for 2 or 3 hours, slowly heating the oven we had built.

While we waited, we hunted for seashells and hermit crabs. Somebody's dad would bring out an octopus he had pulled out of crab pot on the way over. We all laughed when suckers would wrap around our hand, almost greeting us with a handshake. He would release the poor cephlapod with a quick toss into the calm water of the bay once everyone had had a chance examine the blob that was the octopus. A cribbage game might be going on a tiny travel board that someone had in their skiff. There were great conversations and more than one life-lesson learned.

As the fire died down, the embers would be raked away and rocks pulled from the top. A pitchfork lifted the salmon out whole onto a waiting ceder plank. The shellfish and veggies were the last out, with the final bi-valves being picked out by us kids who couldn't wait for plates.

We would eat too much, fatigue would begin to set in. The oven we had built was refilled with sand. The seaweed returned to the ocean for another animal to munch on. We were bundled into our life preservers and seated on bouys for the ride home.



I now know how lucky I was to grow up eating clams and mussels that I had plucked from the beach that very morning. I have a hard time buying most fish now that I live on the East coast. The Atlantic is really just a puddle compared to the Pacific. But shellfish can be sustainably raised with minimal impact on the environment in which the farms are placed, so I do occasionally splurge and buy everything I can find in a shell at the seafood counter. This usually includes lobsters, little neck clams, and mussels. The addition of corn on the cob, red potatoes, and fresh halved lemons fills the pot and a crusty loaf of bread for soaking up the juices completes the meal.

How To Make Split Chicken Breast Into Boneless Skinless

A How To Video that will save you bundles of cash at the market!

Tuesday, April 19, 2016

Cauliflower Rice

MMM, Rice...

Rice.  What a wonder grain.  More than half of the world's population considers it a daily food, but here in the great U S of A, it is more of a once or twice a month culinary item.  While rice is nutritionally robust, it is also carbohydrate heavy. Cauliflower is full of vitamins and minerals too, but slightly less carby than rice.  And rice can be tricky.  Too much water and it's a sticky mess, too high of heat and it scorches.  Enter the magical food that is Cauliflower Rice!  

Cauliflower Rice

This is a simple version, similar to standard steamed white rice.  For fried rice, add sesame oil, scallions, etc.
  1. Remove the core of your cauliflower with a paring knife and cut into 8-10 pieces. 


  2. Place half of the cauliflower into food processor and pulse until the texture of rice, put into mixing bowl. Repeat with the second half of the cauliflower.  Doing this in two portions ensures a more even texture in the end product. Add 1 tsp salt and mix well.
  3. Heat pan on med-hi with 1-2 tablespoons veg oil till surface ripples 
  4. Add half of the cauliflower in an even layer
  5. Cook 2-3 min.  Do not stir during these 2-3 min. We are trying to brown the bottom!

  6. Once the bottom begins to toast, fluff to get a new layer onto the bottom to toast.
  7. Repeat until all the cauliflower is toasted.  Remove cooked cauliflower to clean serving vessel and repeat steps 4-8 with second half of cauliflower.
Enjoy!

Monday, April 18, 2016

Let my liver go!

What am I, chopped liver? 


My chopped liver is the stuff of legends when it comes to pre-meal nosh options.  I learned the recipe and technique after tasting the creamy wonderfulness and deciding I needed to be able to create that myself at home. 

There are different styles and types of chopped liver on the menus at kosher delicatessens around the world.  I prefer a hand chopped -- rough, so to speak-- texture.  I'm not a huge pate fan, smooth is not how I would describe this iron rich, low sodium source of Thiamin, Zinc, Copper and Manganese (and a very good source of Protein, Vitamin A, Vitamin C, Riboflavin, Niacin, Vitamin B6, Folate, Vitamin B12, Pantothenic Acid, Iron, Phosphorus and Selenium).

The recipes are essentially the same, no matter which website you peruse.  Chicken livers, yellow onions, schmaltz, and boiled eggs.  Such humble beginnings.  The prep directions are where the stories begin to ramble.  "Put everything in your food processor, then saute." "Cook the onions and the livers, use a hand mixer to puree, fold in boiled eggs."  While these directions may get you the base flavors this spread is known for, you will be missing out. For the best, none left at the end of the  night, everyone asking for the recipe, chopped liver, use this:

Ebby's Chopped Liver 

For an end result of 1 qt of spread

  Prep the livers:
  1. Rinse 1 qt of fresh chicken livers under cool running water
  2. Fill a large bowl 2/3 full of cold water
  3. Add kosher salt- how much? A LOT!  for 1 gallon of water, 1/4 cup salt- mix to dissolve
  4. Examine your livers, discard any with green areas (this is bile and tastes yucky)
  5. Place the livers into the salty water 
  6. Soak 2-3 hours
  7. Smoosh livers with your fingers under the water. This releases the blood clots.
  8. Strain smoooshed livers through your fingers, letting the water and blood remain.  Place strained smoosh into new clean bowl.
   Cook the onions:
  1. Slice 2# yellow onions into thin rings
  2. Melt 4 tblsp. schmaltz in a large saucepan over medium heat
  3. Add onions to schmaltz, sprinkle with 1/2 tsp kosher salt
  4. Cook 15-20 min on low, stirring frequently, until onions melt and caramelize
  5. Turn heat to High and crisp just the edges of the onions
     
 The eggs:
  1. Place 6 eggs into a pot
  2. Cover with cold water
  3. Add 2 tblsp vinegar
  4. Cover and heat to boiling
  5. Turn off heat and leave in water for 10-12 min
  6. Peel and slice eggs
 Add the livers:
  1. Add the chopped livers to the caramelized onions
  2. Cook on medium stirring constantly, until cooked through. While cooking, use a flat edged wooden spoon to chop the liver and onions more.



Combine:
Mix the sliced eggs into the onion liver mix, stirring well to help break up the eggs. Grate 1/2 of a green apple in for a little extra sweetness





 I recommend covering with plastic and refrigerating at least 24 hours.  Serve cold!

Serve with matzo (for Passover) or green apple slices (for Rosh Hashana) or crackers (for your next snack!).

Monday, November 3, 2014

Kugel Kupcakes

With Rosh Hashanah just around the corner, I have begun to cook and freeze entrees and side dishes for our annual family festivities. Hosting 25 adults, plus their accompanying children, requires as much preparation in advance as possible. These individual kugels are easy to make, freeze well, and toast up nicely. The individualizing also ensures my husband won’t scoop up more than his share, leaving our guests without the yummy goodness that is savory kugel.

The process of making this dish reminds me of raising my son. It starts with tears. Tears from the joy of his birth and starting our family, and tears from chopping the onions. Cooking the mushrooms slowly, letting the essences develop into a sauce that will flavor the entire dish, is like teaching my son that being a good person will lead him to have a good life. Adding the sour cream adds tangy sweetness to the kugel, as each night’s bed time routine is sweetened with a new book or extra snuggle. And the noodles. The noodles must be well seasoned to balance all the flavors, just as I try to season my son by educating him about other cultures and customs, helping him grow into a well-balanced adult. Without the eggs, what would hold the kugel together? Their protein rich goodness holds everything together as children hold families together. Sure, both kugel and families can be made without this ‘glue,’ but for me, both are essential.

Kugel Kupcakes
Makes approx. 36 individual kugels, or two 9”x13”x2” casseroles Mushrooms

Ingredients
3 large onions, chopped into ½” pieces
24 oz sliced crimini mushrooms
5 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
1 tablespoon truffle oil – optional, but really adds flavor
1 tablespoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
16 oz. sour cream
16 oz. large curd cottage cheese
2 large eggs
Two 16 oz bags of Wide Egg Noodles

More salt as needed

Directions
1. Cook egg noodles according to package directions, but add the tablespoon of salt to the water. After you drain, toss with truffle oil.

2. Heat oven to 400 F.

3. Heat a saute pan over medium with 2 tablespoons of veg. oil, add onions and a sprinkle of salt to get them to sweat. Cook 5-7 minutes, tossing occasionally, until golden brown. Pour into large bowl and set aside.

4. Re-heat the same pan with 1 tablespoon of oil and add 1/3 of the mushrooms and another sprinkle of salt. Saute slowly, turning only once browned. If you try to cook all of the mushrooms at once, there is a good chance they will be too crowded to brown. Add to the onions in the big bowl, and repeat twice with the remaining thirds of the mushrooms.


5. Add the sour cream, cottage cheese, and pepper to the mushroom and onions. Mix well. Add the eggs last to ensure they don’t get scrambled. Now pour in the truffled egg noodles and fold to coat evenly.

6. Use a muffin tin, filling each cup all the way with the mixture. Or pour into two casserole dishes.

7. Bake at 400F for 25 min, or until lightly browned on top.

8. Allow to cool on the counter for 1 hr. Loosen the individual kugels by running a knife along the edge, then place into a tupperwear and head to the freezer. The casseroles can be left in their dishes if they are freezer safe.

9. To reheat, place individual kugels on sheet tray and place in oven preheated to 350 F for 20 min, or until heated through. Casseroles make take up to 40 min to re-heat.


Enjoy!

Written by Ebony Goldsmith, Assistant to Marketing and Communications 
Last Edited by Ebby at 11/3/2014

Wednesday, January 15, 2014

It’s customary on Tu B’Shevat, Judaism’s new year for trees, to eat a new fruit or to eat from the seven species described in the Bible as being abundant in the land of Israel. With the holiday quickly approaching, I am testing out some of my recipes that feature these sacred fruits; wheat, barley, grapes, figs, pomegranates, olives, and dates.  While recipes which include only of these items abound, I only have one concoction which incorporates them all, I call it Lava Bread.


I invented this bread a few years ago when looking for a way to spruce up my standard challah. I added one more ingredient each week, testing the change on my family. The wheat and barley were easy additions. Whole wheat flour was already in my standard challah. A sprinkle of toasted barley pearls on top added a nice nutty crunch. And while raisins also are a standard in bread, figs, pomegranates, and dates were new to me. The fruity additions were welcomed by my four year old and his father alike. There was a small amount of resistance to the olives, but the salty contradiction to sweetness is better than you might think.

I called it Lava Bread because it consumes everything you add to it, much the way that magma consumes all in its path. While there are many sweet elements, I consider this to be a savory bread, perfect to serve beside a yummy roast chicken and a side of roasted brussels sprouts.

Celebrating this holiday helps remind our family how important trees are to all of us. I read a comic strip the other day that said “It’s too bad trees don’t put out wifi, we would plant them everywhere. Instead, they only produce oxygen.” I think this is a perfect example of how trees and the work they do is taken for granted by so many.
Enjoy!


Lava Bread

Put ½ cup of dry barley pearls into a bowl with 1 ½ cups boiling water. Cover and set aside.

Mix 1/4 cup warm (110 degree) water with 1 package yeast and 1 packet of sugar (1 tsp) in a small bowl.

In a large bowl, mix 1 1/4 cups warm water with 3 egg yolks, 1 whole egg, 1/2 c honey, 2 tbsp. veggie oil, and 2 tsp. salt. The warm water will help dissolve the honey. Once this mixture is completely homogenous, add the yeast mixture and stir to combine.

Now mix in 1/2 cup whole wheat flour. I find a wisk works best to ensure this is evenly distributed. Next, add bread flour*, 1 cup at a time, mixing thoroughly with each addition until you have added 4- 6 cups (this depends on the humidity that particular day). You will know when you’ve added enough when you can pinch the dough and it doesn’t stick to your fingers.

*Bread flour is higher in protein, which improves the texture of the bread. AP flour will work if you don’t have the Bread flour, ditto for the whole wheat flour.

Dump this mixture out on to a well-floured surface and fill your bowl with warm water.
Put a small pan of water on the stove and bring to a boil.
While you wait for the water to boil, knead dough to incorporate another 1/2 cup of flour. Form into a ball.

Wash your bowl (should be very quick, since you filled it with warm water a little while ago) with hot water and dry well.

Now coat the inside of the bowl with veg oil and place the dough ball inside, turning to coat. Cover the bowl of dough with a tea towel that has been wet with hot water and wrung out.

Place the bowl and the pan of hot water side by side in your oven, with the oven off. While beginning to rise (25 minutes), prep your other mix-ins.

Mix-ins:
1/3 cup dried figs, chopped into 1/2” pieces
1/3 cup raisins
1/3 cup dates, chopped into 1/2” pieces
1/3 cup pitted mixed greek olives, chopped into 1/4” pieces
1/3 cup pomegranate airls

When the 25 minutes is up, pull back the towel and sprinkle the mix-ins over the dough.
Re-cover and return to the oven for another 25 minutes. During this time, about 15% of the mix-ins will begin to sink in to the dough.

Now pour the dough and mix-ins remaining on top back onto your well-floured board. Be sure to flour your hands well, and then knead 1-2 minutes to incorporate the rest of the mix-ins into the dough. While you’re kneading, re-heat your water. Return dough to bowl with re-warmed and wrung towel, and place it back into the oven with the reheated pan of water.

Let rise 1 hour.

Pour onto floured bowl again and knead 3-5 minutes, adding flour as needed, so dough isn’t too sticky.

Now you are ready to braid. I like to keep it simple and just do a 6 part weave, but you can do whatever style you like.

Place onto parchment paper and brush with egg wash (1 egg + tblsp water).

Rise for the last time, 35-40 minutes on the counter. The rising is done when the dough doesn’t bounce back when you touch it, but gets an indention instead.

Heat your oven to 350 degrees about 10 minutes BEFORE you dough is done rising.

Place the challah into the oven for 20 minutes. Pull out and coat again with egg wash. This ensures all the crust is nice and brown. Sprinkle on the barley pearls and a generous pinch of kosher salt. Spin so the side that was in the front of the oven is now in the back of the oven and return to the oven. Cook another 20-25 minutes, or until it sounds hollow when you tap it.

Allow to cool completely, then slice and enjoy!


lavabread 2
 By Ebony Goldsmith, Marketing and Communications Assistant
Last Edited by Ebby at 1/15/2014

Wednesday, November 27, 2013

A Whole Latta Latkas!

No Thanksgiving table would be complete without sweet potatoes. And latkes (potato pancakes) are key to a successful Hanukkah dinner in our home. So this year, in honor of Thanksgivukkah, I am making Sweet Potato Latkes!

Why are sweet potatoes so important to Thanksgiving? It is probably because they are at their prime this time of year. The beta-carotene rich tubers are full of sugars that haven’t converted to starches yet. And sweet potatoes match the fall leaves perfectly, bringing some of the amazing color from changing of seasons onto your table. They are one symbol of a successful harvest, and something for which to be thankful.

You may already know the symbolism of latkes, but for those of you who don’t know, I encourage you to read this wonderful explanation from the New York Times circa 1982.
The miracle symbolized by the oil in which they are fried, as well as their delicious taste, are two more things for which to be thankful.

There are many recipes for Sweet Potato Latkes out there, but this one finishes with time in the oven, which allows the carbohydrates in the sweet potato to caramelize, adding a nice crunch to the edges and softening the centers into yummy goodness.

Sweet Potato Latkas

Peel and grate about 3 cups of sweet potato.
Add ¼ cup matzo meal, two eggs, and 1 tsp kosher salt. Mix well.

Preheat oven to 350.
Form into circles about ½ inch thick and 3 inches wide.










Drop into oil ( ¼ to ½ inch deep) that has been heated to around 375 degrees (hot enough to make a single shred of the mix dance around). I can usually fit 3-5 into the oil at a time.
Cook 2 min on each side, to a nice golden brown.
Place on cookie sheet and put into oven.
Continue frying the rest of the mixture in batches, adding to your cookie sheet.
When the last bunch goes onto the cookie sheet, I usually bake for 5 more minutes.


Enjoy with applesauce or sour cream as you wish! Do you have any wonderful latke recipes, sweet potato or not, that you’d like to share? If so, please do so here!










By Ebony Goldsmith, Marketing and Communications Assistant